Download All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend by David Rensin PDF

By David Rensin

There'll by no means be one other surfer like Miki 'Da Cat' Dora. For two decades the speeding and enigmatic darkish prince of California browsing ruled the Malibu waves and his peers' imaginations, blazing a path that may motivate generations to come back. but if the game exploded into the mainstream and browsing replaced for ever, Dora's paradise was once misplaced. Outraged at gridlocked swells and a scene that had grown ever extra commodified, Dora ultimately fled Malibu, looking empty waves - and anonymity - past the US. He'd additionally run afoul of the legislation, and he led the professionals on a seven-year chase world wide. but, Dora may by no means hand over trying to find the spirit of the Malibu he'd misplaced. anywhere he made his domestic - New Zealand, South Africa, France - he personified the insurgent center of browsing and have become a legend in his personal time. This exceptional biography, in line with interviews with greater than 300 those that knew Dora, eventually uncovers the reality approximately surfing's such a lot seductive and complex icon.

Show description

Read Online or Download All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora PDF

Best biography books

Sweet Thunder: The Life and Times of Sugar Ray Robinson

From the writer of the seriously acclaimed In Black and White: The lifetime of Sammy Davis, Jr. , comes one other illuminating socio-historical narrative of the 20 th century, this one spun round some of the most iconic figures of the struggle online game, Sugar Ray Robinson.

Continuing to set himself aside as considered one of our canniest cultural historians, Wil Haygood grounds the excellent tale of Robinson's upward push to greatness in the context of the fighter's existence and occasions. Born Walker Smith, Jr. , in 1921, Robinson had an early early life marked via the seething racial tensions and explosive race riots that contaminated the Midwest in the course of the twenties and thirties. After his mom moved him and his sisters to the relative security of Harlem, he got here of age within the brilliant post-Renaissance years. It was once there that—encouraged to field by means of his mom, who sought after him off the streets—he quickly turned a emerging superstar, slicing an electrifying, glamorous determine, using round city in his recognized purple Cadillac. past the fame, notwithstanding, Robinson could turn out to be a strong, usually arguable black image in a swiftly altering the US. Haygood additionally weaves within the tales of Langston Hughes, Lena Horne, and Miles Davis, whose lives not just intersected with Robinson's but additionally give a contribution richly to the scope and soul of the book.

From Robinson's ugly six-bout battle with Jake "Raging Bull" LaMotta and his deadly assembly with Jimmy Doyle to his Harlem nightclub years and thwarted show-biz goals, Haygood brings the champion's tale, within the ring and out, powerfully to existence opposed to a vividly painted backdrop of the realm he captivated.

The Real Elizabeth: An Intimate Portrait of Queen Elizabeth II

A brilliant and intensely own biography of a girl who could be the world's final nice queen, released to coincide with the 60th anniversary of her reign

Elizabeth II, certainly one of England's longest-reigning monarchs, is an enigma. In public, she confines herself to confident pieties and protected smiles; in inner most, she is wry, humorous, and a very good mimic. Now, for the 1st time, certainly one of Britain's major reporters and historians will get in the back of the masks and tells us the attention-grabbing tale of the true Elizabeth.

Born presently earlier than the melancholy, Elizabeth grew up in the course of international battle II and have become queen as a result surprising abdication of her uncle and the early loss of life of her father. in basic terms twenty-five while she ascended to the throne, she has been on the apex of the British country for almost six many years. She has entertained and recognized quite a few global leaders, together with each U. S. president on the grounds that Harry Truman. cited to treat kin values as sacred, she has visible all yet one in all her kids divorce; her inheritor, Prince Charles, behavior an adulterous affair earlier than Princess Diana's demise; and a gentle circulation of relatives secrets and techniques poured into the open. but she hasn't ever did not perform her tasks, and she or he hasn't ever acknowledged a notice approximately any of the concerns she has endured.

Andrew Marr, who enjoys notable entry to senior figures at Buckingham Palace, has written a revealing and crucial e-book a couple of lady who has controlled to stay deepest to the purpose of puzzle all through her reign.

Bootstrapper: From Broke to Badass on a Northern Michigan Farm

While Mardi Jo hyperlink unearths herself a newly unmarried mom after nineteen years of marriage, she makes a probably very unlikely answer: to stick in her century old-farmhouse and proceed elevating her 3 boys on well-water, cutting wooden, and grime. Armed with an unflagging humorousness and a constant optimism that might placed Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farm to disgrace, hyperlink and her resolute accomplices plow through one lengthy, challenging 12 months of blizzards, foxes, discount cooking, rampaging fowl, a zucchini-growing contest, and different demanding situations.

The Suicide Index: Putting My Father's Death in Order

One wintry weather morning in 1991, Joan Wickersham's father shot himself within the head. the daddy she enjoyed may by no means have killed himself, and but he had. His demise made a secret of his complete lifestyles. Who was once he? Why did he do it? And what was once the effect of his demise at the those who enjoyed him? utilizing an index—that so much formal and orderly of structures—Wickersham explores this chaotic and incomprehensible fact.

Extra resources for All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora

Example text

The anger seemed to drain suddenly out of my mother. ” At this Ida Rebecca jabbed her knife into the jar and smeared the bread with a thick coat of jelly, all the time glaring at my mother. “Eat it,” she commanded. I waited until my mother marched out, very near tears, I judged, and then I ate it while Ida Rebecca watched. I didn’t dare not to. Not going to my grandmother’s side of the road was an impossibility, and my mother acknowledged it, and went frequently herself in calmer moments, for Ida Rebecca’s house was the capitol of Morrisonville.

Its name, Morrisonville, dated from the early part of the nineteenth century. By the time I came along it could have been appropriately renamed Bakerville, for almost every soul in the community was a member in some degree of the prodigious Baker family, which had settled in the region around 1730. Why a settlement rose there in the first place is a mystery. T h e village sat a third of a mile back from the only paved road in the territory, and the sole waterway was a creek so shallow I could wade across it and barely get my feet wet.

Boils and carbuncles were covered with the membrane of a boiled egg to “draw the core” before being lanced with a needle sterilized in a match flame. When my cousin Lillian stepped barefoot on a rusty nail, my grandmother insisted on treating the puncture by applying a slab of raw bacon. When my cousin Catherine’s hand touched a red-hot wood stove, my grandmother seized her arm and with fingertips light as feathers stroked the blistering skin while murmuring an incoherent incantation in a trancelike monotone.

Download PDF sample

Rated 4.45 of 5 – based on 20 votes