By David Rensin
There'll by no means be one other surfer like Miki 'Da Cat' Dora. For two decades the speeding and enigmatic darkish prince of California browsing ruled the Malibu waves and his peers' imaginations, blazing a path that may motivate generations to come back. but if the game exploded into the mainstream and browsing replaced for ever, Dora's paradise was once misplaced. Outraged at gridlocked swells and a scene that had grown ever extra commodified, Dora ultimately fled Malibu, looking empty waves - and anonymity - past the US. He'd additionally run afoul of the legislation, and he led the professionals on a seven-year chase world wide. but, Dora may by no means hand over trying to find the spirit of the Malibu he'd misplaced. anywhere he made his domestic - New Zealand, South Africa, France - he personified the insurgent center of browsing and have become a legend in his personal time. This exceptional biography, in line with interviews with greater than 300 those that knew Dora, eventually uncovers the reality approximately surfing's such a lot seductive and complex icon.
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Extra resources for All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora
The anger seemed to drain suddenly out of my mother. ” At this Ida Rebecca jabbed her knife into the jar and smeared the bread with a thick coat of jelly, all the time glaring at my mother. “Eat it,” she commanded. I waited until my mother marched out, very near tears, I judged, and then I ate it while Ida Rebecca watched. I didn’t dare not to. Not going to my grandmother’s side of the road was an impossibility, and my mother acknowledged it, and went frequently herself in calmer moments, for Ida Rebecca’s house was the capitol of Morrisonville.
Its name, Morrisonville, dated from the early part of the nineteenth century. By the time I came along it could have been appropriately renamed Bakerville, for almost every soul in the community was a member in some degree of the prodigious Baker family, which had settled in the region around 1730. Why a settlement rose there in the first place is a mystery. T h e village sat a third of a mile back from the only paved road in the territory, and the sole waterway was a creek so shallow I could wade across it and barely get my feet wet.
Boils and carbuncles were covered with the membrane of a boiled egg to “draw the core” before being lanced with a needle sterilized in a match flame. When my cousin Lillian stepped barefoot on a rusty nail, my grandmother insisted on treating the puncture by applying a slab of raw bacon. When my cousin Catherine’s hand touched a red-hot wood stove, my grandmother seized her arm and with fingertips light as feathers stroked the blistering skin while murmuring an incoherent incantation in a trancelike monotone.